At the end of the 1930s, Panerai began to engage in watch-making, adhering the innovative spirit that made military precision instruments for Italian Royal Navy, Panerai created the “Luminous Diving Watch”, which was specifically designed for the first frogman force. Duarable, waterproof and maintaining high readability in any case were Italian Navy’s requirements in quality. In 1938, Panerai designed the first prototype, it featured large cushion-shaped case(diameter was 47mm), metal “Wire Lugs” were welded to the middle part of case, screw-in case back and crown. Self-winding movement with 16 ligne(slightly larger than 36mm), this was the classic size of pocket watch. Movement, case back and crown were all marked with “Rolex” logo, which witnessed the valuable partnership between Panerai and the brand located in Geneva. The outstanding design, including the Perspex that had high transparency and excellent acid resistance; the dial had lunimous hour markers, Arabic and Roman numerals; genuine leather strap was waterproof and it was long enough for rangers to wear the watch outside the diving suit.
Radiomir Watch in 1938
From prototype to a small production, the case of this model, especially the dial have been vastly improved. The testing result of prototype revealed that the major flaw of this watch was hard to read time. Thus, the new model used sandwich structure, at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock of the top black layer, there were perforations of markersa and Arabic numbers, the disk below the top black dial were engraved with hour markers and covered with a high intensity radioactive material, and the brightness fully meet the needs of raid, so this model was named with this material Radiomir, to highlight this design. The inspiration of Radiomir came from the Panerai reserchers who developed luminous coating, the ingredients included zinc sulphide, radium bromide(that was extract out of radium) and thorium.
Radiomir Ref.3646
These early models had more than 60-year history since their birth, during this period, we witnessed the great progress in watchmaking and science technology. Panerai developed new case and better waterproof technology, for example: the Crown Guard with the lever(Panerai patented), used to lock crown tightly. The radioactive Radiomir(Panerai patented) was taken place by Luminor, which was modulated by the tritium. The new developed Super Luminova was also used in the latest models.
In the 1990s, Panerai started another pioneering work. Those precision instruments, which were originally supplied to Italian Navy, became the dream watches for mechanical watch enthusiasts. The size and appearance of these vintage watches were well-designed and kept the traditional design concept. However, the thing wouldn’t never change was the insistence on prodiving good quality watches. The Radiomir and Luminor, which were on behalf of the past glory achievements, have become two basic models that led the new trend of sports watches. Radiomir series inherited the appearance of the first Radiomir watch in 1938 and has become more and more perfect since 1997, Radiomir watches equipped with complicated movements and were positioned as Chronograph timepieces. Panerai also released a few Radiomir models that equipped with vintage movements, they were worth collecting.
Luminor 6152/1 That Equipped with Angelus 8 Days Movement
Radiomir shown ultimate style in 2004 and launched three new models for watch fans in that year, Radiomir 45mm Black Seal, Radiomir 8 Days Power Reserve and Radiomir GMT. These watches had special design and provided excellent performance for daily use. They belonged to PANERAI CONTEMPORARY and highlighted various outstanding models and the desire that Panerai wanted to add additional value on them since its establishment. In these new models, only Radiomir 8 Days purely expressed the watch-making emotion of Panerai, the movement it used had 8 days power reserve, which was the same as the revolutionary Angelus movement in the 1940s.
Radiomir 8 Days
Black Seal 8 Days Rose Gold
Radiomir series shown superior design in 8 Days, the adoption of innovative movement once again reflected a firm idea that Panerai has always insisted on using advanced watch-making technology to pursuit practical performance. This watch restored the previous device developed by Panerai – manual winding 8 days power reserve movement, but modern “regulator” attribut was added on it. Panerai adopted Angelus movement in the 1940s, but the movement of the new Radiomir 8 Days watch was base on Jaeger-LeCoultre movement.
Manufacturing Radiomir 8 Days involed a lot of elements, was quite complex. The case was 45mm in diameter and composed of three parts, the “wire lugs” were panerai patented, they could provide high durability and stability. The arc-shaped case and rounded bezel needed multi-channel process to built, only the most skilled watchmaster could be competent to do this work, because any minor mistake during the polishing process would cause irreparable damage to the pleasing rounded bezel.
Screw-down case back and crown were waterproof to 100 metres, for this elegant and sports watch, the superior waterproof performance was very important. Leather strap highlighted the distinctive style, oversized trapezoidal buckle, whose inspiration came from the earlist Panerai watches. The legendary story of Panerai began in the first Radiomir watch ordered by Italian Royal Navy in 1938. Panerai reproduced this watch in the late 1990s to satisfy watch fans, to supply outstanding and eye-catching watches for them.
Black Seal 8 Days Caliber OP XIV
Panerai first launched Radiomir re-edition in 1997, the watch was limited to 60 pieces and built in Platinum, it equipped with vintage Rolex movement. This watch became the favorite of collectors, sold at a very high price in international auction. The excellence of Radiomir 8 Days was its extremely superior mechanical movement. Manual-winding Panerai OP XIV, based on JLC 1877 movement, power reserve was up to 8 days, which was the standard power reserve of modern top watches. The movement surface had Côtes de Genève decoration, the polished blued steel screws made it show a better texture. Different to other watches, the power reserve indicator of this watch was set on the bridge of the movement, you could view from the transparent sapphire case back.
Black Seal 8 Days Stainless Steel
The dial of Radiomir 8 Days adopted the same watch-making technology that was also used by early Panerai watches, it was a three layered structure, including two overlapping disks. The top disk had holes, the disk below was coated with luminescent painting. Small seconds dial followed Panerai tradition, at 9 o’clock.
Radiomir GMT
Elegant, outstanding, pratical. GMT added new style to Panerai Radiomir. The 42mm case followed the beautiful design of Radiomir GMT Alarm, set crown both at 2 and 4 o’clock. (GMT is the abbreviation of Greenwich Mean Time)
Radiomir GMT
The watch canceled GMT Alarm function and adjusted the configuration of GMT displaying to achive the best effect. The gmt hand rotated once every 24 hours, the rotating flange around the dial was divided into 24 hours. Pressing the crown at 2 could put forward one hour, “GMT” letters were also engraved there for you to identify. Pressing the crown at 4 to adjust time and date, it also controlled the winding. If the watch rested for a long time, to ensure a normal operation, you’d better wind it first before self-winding was active. This avoided the situation that spring couldn’t supply enough power to drive the balance wheel to work accurately.
Officine Panerai organized the rare movements in history and equipped them in Radiomir. GMT was exactly one of the complex models. The unique cushion-shaped case of Radiomir was also used in other movements that had technical significance, including the rare tourbillon models.
Radiomir GMT Modified From Radiomir GMT Alarm
The major innovation of Radiomir GMT was the Panerai OP XIII that was based on Jaeger-leCoultre movement. Black dial followed Panerai tradition, at 9 o’clock, there was small seconds subdial. Stick and Arabic numerous hour markers left space for the date window at 3. Radiomir GMT was water resistant to 100 metres. Two screw-down crowns and case back had solid gaskets, which guaranteed watch’s waterproofing.
Radiomir 45mm Black Seal
Panerai Radiomir Black Seal aroused people’s memory of Italian Navy Gamma force in the World War II. Its members drove SLC(Siluri a Lenta Corsa), or Maiali or even called Black Seal to fightly bravely and became the legends. Radiomir Black Seal Stainless Steel manual-winding model was first launched by Panerai in 2004, until now, it still was the favorite of many watch fans. Classic appearance and historical details were full of Panerai spirit. At 2007 SIHH, Panerai introduced Radiomir Black Seal self-winding stainless steel and manual-winding ceramic to the public.
Radiomir Black Seal PAM 183
Radiomir Black Seal Ceramic PAM 292
Radiomir Black Seal Automatic PAM 287
Black Seal was the masterpiece to praise the Radiomir modles that were made in the 1930s. Unique structure and perfect case design, full of modern sense, so fashion and charming. Panerai Radiomir watch used wire lugs to link leather strap with cushion-shaped case. It was the watch that fully reflected Panerai’s superior technology, smooth lines conveyed elegant texture and highlighted beautiful modern appearance. The design of Radiomir imitated the first watch which Panerai made for Italian Royal Navy in 1938, it was also a watch that was full of historic significance. The biggest feature was its case structure, screw-down crown and case back ensured high waterproofing. Radiomir luminescence, which was made of ZnS, New Th and Radium bromide, could give the dial a high visibility even in the harsh environment.
PAM249 – California Dial
PAM249 – Blued Steel Hands
The main attraction of PAM249, wasn’t the movement but the dial. The dial, combined Roman and Arabic numbers, known as California Dial. This name wasn’t being widely used until the 80s. However, Roman and Arabic combinations appeared in the early 1930s, Rolex used this design.
Panerai skillfully created luminous dial, coupled with blued steel hands, it’s perfect on aesthetic view.
Specifications of Radiomir 8 Days Power Reserve
Case: Composed of three parts, 45mm in diameter, polished steel, removable wire lugs fixed by small screws. Screw-down crown was engraved with “PANERAI” words.
Bezel: Polished steel
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire, 1.9mm thick
Case Back: Steel, screw-down, sapphire crystal windown
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: Panerai OP XIV manual-winding(based on JLC 1877), 13¼ lignes, 33 jewels, 8 days power reserve(displayed on the back), two barrels, 28,800VPH, Côtes de Genève decoration, matt finished bridges, polished blued steel screws, Swan Neck Regulator.
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Dial: Black, luminous hour markers, small seconds dial at 9 o’clock, hands in K gold.
Strap: Hand-stitched leather strap, vintage buckle was polished and engraved with “PANERAI” words.
Reference: PAM00190
Price: €6,400
Production: 650 pieces
Available: Rose gold(PAM00197), black dial with clou de paris decoration, alligator leather strap coupled with traditional trapezoidal buckle, sold at €16,000。
Specifications of Radiomir GMT
Case: Composed of three parts, 42mm in diameter, polished steel, removable wire lugs fixed by small screws(Panerai patent). The crown to adjust second time zone was positoned at 2 o’clock and engraved with “GMT” words, the winding crown was engraved with “Officine Panerai” logo, they were all screw-down.
Bezel: Polished steel
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire, 1.5mm thick, date window at 3
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: Panerai OP XIII self-winding mechanical(JLC 897 plate), 11½ lignes, 35 jewels, Glucydur balance wheel, 28,800VPH, 37 hours power reserve. Rotor and bridges were decorated with Côtes de Genève, polished blued steel screws, C.O.S.C.
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, gmt.
Dial: Black, stick and Arabic luminous hour markers, small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The second time zone was marked with 24-hour scales, the arrow-shaped gmt hand indicating the second time.
Strap: Hand-stitched black leather strap, the inner material was anti-allergic, steel folding buckle was engraved with “PANERAI” words.
Reference: PAM00184
Price: €5,900
Production: 1,000 pieces
Available: White gold(PAM00185), black dial, black alligator leather strap(€13,900).
Specifications of Radiomir 45mm Black Seal
Case: Polished steel, 45mm in diameter
Bezel: Polished steel
Crystal: Sapphire, 1.9mm thick
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: Calibre OP XI
Power Reserve: 56 hours
Dial: Black Sandwich
Case Back: Transparent sapphire
Reference: PAM00183
